Discussion in 'Suspension Tech' started by Redneck_ranger, Jan 26, 2012.
nope the only fix is replace the parts
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hope you figure it out dude. hey dont the MOOG ball joints require you to use their control arms or is that just some?
I have no clue if that's required. Alright, here's my list of parts to replace....
Ball joints (all)
Upper control arms and bushings
Tie rods (both inner and outer)
Anything else I should change while I'm there?
You talking about the negative camber?
Well, I totaled it all up and I'm looking at approximately $550 worth of parts, and a few days downtime from the truck. She's waiting until the summer to get it done when I can save up some cash...
Yessir. Can't stand it. Looks awkward, wears my tires HORRIDLY, and causes the truck to ride like crap.
That sucks!!! So if i crank my tbars will it do that?
I'm not entirely sure anymore. I swore by it before, but after getting an alignment, and having the two numbers be so far off, I don't think it is from that anymore. I mean, yeah. They'll be cambered somewhat because the upper A-arm is shorter than the bottom, but not this bad. Hooligan has his cranked from what he told me, and he got his aligned for it. They sell adjustable camber kits to fix this too, but I'm not going to add another part if I don't need to.
i know with my ranger you cant just change the upper ball joint, it's the entire upper control arm with the bushings that get changed
with the torsion bar set up, from the factory the upper ball joint is non-replacable without changing the entire upper control arm,
moog sells there upper control arms with a new ball joint and in thier kit it is replaceable.
i know, cause i have a 2000 ranger in my shop right now, im doing ball joints on.
just get the moog and be done with it
wait? so pete u got an alignment just to see the number and didnt have them adjust anything? seems like a waste of time and money bud
yea this is what i was thinking of
Okay.....first things first. How many miles on the truck? How long have you owned it? Have you done any suspension replacement as of yet? That'll determine a good amount of what's been going on with your truck. Alot of folks don't replace things until they break. And if you've got some 120k+ miles on the ride, well then, we know what's going on. BJ's, outer rod ends, uppers(GET ALL MOOGS!!!!). I'd even suggest getting adjustable cam-bolts for the upper arms. Stock, there's virtually no caster/camber adjustment. If you run cranked bars or even untouched bars, you'll want cam-bolts(Ingalls #29000 from Summit). Then a full complete thorough alignment with two good tires up front. Can't align with two horribly effed up tires!! lol. RockAuto has great prices on Moog stuff and it's who I went through.
With that much crazy angle and apparently everything "good", I'd start to suspect the bearings/hubs. Jack the truck up and wiggle the tire at 12 and 6, in and out. If there's give, you need bearings. Timken/Timkin brand would be the best there. See vid below:
Mine has about 140k on it and I just now finally had my alignment done. Did BJ's at about 70k, outer rod ends at about 115k along with bearings after a failure. NEVER having done it before after buying it at only 30k, just eyeballed. Now I have new tires and want them to actually last. I've got the superlift up front, fox coil-overs, and upper cam-bolts. It's dead freaking on. Couldn't be happier with how it drives now.
Shouldn't have to do inners. I thought mine were moving and needing done but the frame shop called 'em good.
FYI: BJ's are built into the arms.....therefore if you order upper joints, you're getting arms. That's why the price is HUUUUGE for those compared to the lowers. If you order Moog, their arms have replaceable joints. Makes it cheaper in the long run.
Yeah, just hit 140,400 on my way home today.
Then it's likely everything needs addressed. Now what about all the other questions I asked and comments???? Hmm....
I owned it for 8 months on the 19th. No susp work done yet. All axle work. I'm pretty sure you hit the nail on the head mate. You seem to know what you're talking about.
Must be that chain in the front
My truck is the exact opposite i have 1.8 degrees positive camber....but i know what my problem is! lol Just don't have the money to fix it at the moment!
Simple fix like I told you. Get 2 degree adj. camber bushings for the upper balljoint!
actually, if your 4wd, you should have adjutable camber bushings
Well, I just had my outer tie rod replaced on the passenger side, and it seems like it took a lot of it away. Before the tires start wearing funky, I'm gonna replace the drivers side and then probably ball joints. So hopefully it helps.
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