SICK OF THESE FRICKEN CAMBER PROBLEMS... Please help me out with this.

Discussion in 'Suspension Tech' started by Redneck_ranger, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. djfllmn

    djfllmn ^^^ I am Mr. Clean!

    nope the only fix is replace the parts
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  3. SalRanger2

    SalRanger2 Ranger Lover

    hope you figure it out dude. hey dont the MOOG ball joints require you to use their control arms or is that just some?
  4. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    I have no clue if that's required. Alright, here's my list of parts to replace....
    Ball joints (all)
    Upper control arms and bushings
    Tie rods (both inner and outer)

    Anything else I should change while I'm there?
  5. joshyddog

    joshyddog New Member

    You talking about the negative camber?
  6. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    Well, I totaled it all up and I'm looking at approximately $550 worth of parts, and a few days downtime from the truck. She's waiting until the summer to get it done when I can save up some cash...
  7. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    Yessir. Can't stand it. Looks awkward, wears my tires HORRIDLY, and causes the truck to ride like crap.
  8. joshyddog

    joshyddog New Member

    That sucks!!! So if i crank my tbars will it do that?
  9. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    I'm not entirely sure anymore. I swore by it before, but after getting an alignment, and having the two numbers be so far off, I don't think it is from that anymore. I mean, yeah. They'll be cambered somewhat because the upper A-arm is shorter than the bottom, but not this bad. Hooligan has his cranked from what he told me, and he got his aligned for it. They sell adjustable camber kits to fix this too, but I'm not going to add another part if I don't need to.
  10. nicksranger01

    nicksranger01 New Member

    i know with my ranger you cant just change the upper ball joint, it's the entire upper control arm with the bushings that get changed
  11. ZRanger28

    ZRanger28 Got boost?

    with the torsion bar set up, from the factory the upper ball joint is non-replacable without changing the entire upper control arm,

    moog sells there upper control arms with a new ball joint and in thier kit it is replaceable.

    i know, cause i have a 2000 ranger in my shop right now, im doing ball joints on.

    just get the moog and be done with it

    wait? so pete u got an alignment just to see the number and didnt have them adjust anything? seems like a waste of time and money bud
  12. SalRanger2

    SalRanger2 Ranger Lover

    yea this is what i was thinking of
  13. Fx4wannabe01

    Fx4wannabe01 New Member

    Okay.....first things first. How many miles on the truck? How long have you owned it? Have you done any suspension replacement as of yet? That'll determine a good amount of what's been going on with your truck. Alot of folks don't replace things until they break. And if you've got some 120k+ miles on the ride, well then, we know what's going on. BJ's, outer rod ends, uppers(GET ALL MOOGS!!!!). I'd even suggest getting adjustable cam-bolts for the upper arms. Stock, there's virtually no caster/camber adjustment. If you run cranked bars or even untouched bars, you'll want cam-bolts(Ingalls #29000 from Summit). Then a full complete thorough alignment with two good tires up front. Can't align with two horribly effed up tires!! lol. RockAuto has great prices on Moog stuff and it's who I went through.

    With that much crazy angle and apparently everything "good", I'd start to suspect the bearings/hubs. Jack the truck up and wiggle the tire at 12 and 6, in and out. If there's give, you need bearings. Timken/Timkin brand would be the best there. See vid below:

    Mine has about 140k on it and I just now finally had my alignment done. Did BJ's at about 70k, outer rod ends at about 115k along with bearings after a failure. NEVER having done it before after buying it at only 30k, just eyeballed. Now I have new tires and want them to actually last. I've got the superlift up front, fox coil-overs, and upper cam-bolts. It's dead freaking on. Couldn't be happier with how it drives now.

    Shouldn't have to do inners. I thought mine were moving and needing done but the frame shop called 'em good.

    FYI: BJ's are built into the arms.....therefore if you order upper joints, you're getting arms. That's why the price is HUUUUGE for those compared to the lowers. If you order Moog, their arms have replaceable joints. Makes it cheaper in the long run.

    Last edited: Feb 1, 2012
  14. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    Yeah, just hit 140,400 on my way home today.
  15. Fx4wannabe01

    Fx4wannabe01 New Member

    Then it's likely everything needs addressed. Now what about all the other questions I asked and comments???? Hmm....
  16. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    I owned it for 8 months on the 19th. No susp work done yet. All axle work. I'm pretty sure you hit the nail on the head mate. You seem to know what you're talking about.
  17. pooleo

    pooleo New Member

    Must be that chain in the front :p
  18. cookiemonster

    cookiemonster New Member

    My truck is the exact opposite i have 1.8 degrees positive camber....but i know what my problem is! lol Just don't have the money to fix it at the moment!
  19. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Simple fix like I told you. Get 2 degree adj. camber bushings for the upper balljoint!
  20. pooleo

    pooleo New Member

    actually, if your 4wd, you should have adjutable camber bushings
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012
  21. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    Well, I just had my outer tie rod replaced on the passenger side, and it seems like it took a lot of it away. Before the tires start wearing funky, I'm gonna replace the drivers side and then probably ball joints. So hopefully it helps.

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