leaf spring shackle mount

In the attached picture look at the parts in the RED circle it show the shackle and shackle mount. The mount is the part the bolts to the frame and the shackle goes between the mount and spring.

Usually the spring eye bolt is so rusty inside that it is a major PITA to get the bolt out.
 
Good to see the parts and are getting ready to get it done.
Another good idea is the rust proofing, before putting the part on, also make sure there is a drain on the lower part of the Shackle Mount, it will allow any water to drain out.
Easier to add the hole if the part is not mounted.

When my shackle mount broke the spring was broken too, double check the springs to make sure they are OK.
 
i had ww3 with rust today and won. i spent 45 mins grinding the bolts off and hammering them out. then my teacher took a torch to the two rivets and spent about a half hour putting everything back together. i need to get a new shackle though mine are already starting to rust out. the leaf spring seems fine.
 
nope i couldnt get any since i was working with my teacher the whole time and didnt think about it. and its hard to get a pic since its so dark up there the camera cant pick it up. what was left of the shackle was crazy though. i got half of it half with one swing of the hammer once i ground off the heads of the bolts. then the rest was just pieces of rust. the next project is to get the new shackles on. will the leaf springs be under a lot of tension once i get the bolts out?
 
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to replace the shackles will i be able to just un bolt them and bolt the new ones on? or will i have to jack the frame up?
 
Jack rear of truck by the frame. Lower the spare tire. If you have access to a cutting torch, that will save you a LOT of frustration. The isn't a lot of room to work under there. You'll at least need air tools. You have to get the backs of the rivets - inside the frame. That's easier than the heads, at least it was for me. The guys on 'Trucks' suggest cutting an X on the rivet heads before attempting to go after them with the air chisel. Even after cutting the heads or melting the back of the rivets. - they don't just fall out. You'll still need to pound them out of the holes in the frame. Remember there's not a lot of space under there.
I had a heck of a time getting the bolt out of the spring itself. You cannot pound it out because the spring shakes and moves. Finally I just let the bushings burn until everything loosened up enough for me to remove the bolt.
FWIW the shop near my work quoted $200 each side. If my neighbor didn't have a torch I would have had to do it, or remove the bed to make it easier.
Hope this helps.
 
thanks for the info thulsa. i read somewhere that to take the tension off the shackle ill have to jack up the rear by the frame than unbolt the shock. is unbolting the shock necessary?
 
any tips on getting the shackle out? im thinking about doing this over my christmas break. i know the top bolt will just come up out. for the bottom one i think i will take a torch to it to get the bottom bolt out. then somehow get the bushing in. does the passenger side have two rivets like the drivers side does?
 
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/373857_10200504506154629_275641257_n.jpg
that is what my shackle looked like when i pulled it off to replaced it.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483101_10200504507394660_1709695435_n.jpg
that is how i got the leaf spring bushing out an the new one in, its a snap on ball joint/ u joint press.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/601201_10200504511874772_210164151_n.jpg
that is what the leaf spring shacke mount looked like, i got some grade 10 bolts to hold it to the frame, it has worked for about 8 months now without any issues.
 
Try cleaning the leaf spring out with a torch, then put the new bushing in the freezer for a day or so n take it out of freezer n immediately hammer it in, ur in ct so wait for a cold day n slam it in
 
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