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I've got a 4.0 pushrod myself. I know growing up my dad never cared what plugs we put in stuff. As long as plug temp (amount of ribs on the porcelin), thread size/depth, and metal portion were the same length. I've never had an issue doing that way. Oh, and the seat was the same. Check what...

Oh gosh, I forgot to post pictures of the book and it's been 3 months. I'll get those pics to ya tomorrow for you to use in the future.

More looking will have to be done to know for sure, but I think you pull the pan, remove the filter, unplug the solenoid and unbolt it. I'll get some instructions from somewhere and post them. I'd suggest replacing the filter while the pan is off. Make sure you clean the grit off the bottom too.

Did some searching and got 2 results on eBay out of all places I could think of. The magical search term ended up being "Ford ranger spare tire bar"...

Well, from what I hear, there's a first time for everything.

Got a break, here's a pic. There was a spare tire on it, had to take it off because the pin broke which is now held up by fence wire.

Hey, looks like I'm late. I've got the same type on my splash. I'll post a pic so you can see what he's talking about. Might be a day or so yet, got plans for the rest of today.

Ah, forgot to post pics of the plug!

I couldn't find this on the forums and instructions on Google are hard to come by. So I though I'd put this out there for people wanting to bypass their clutch switch. There are 6 pins on the switch, my ranger only uses two. I ohmed them out and this is what I got, with pedal pressed to the...

Just did a voltage check on the sense wire, It's normal, but still jumps a little. Found out I had the probe between sense and ground. The real issue ended up being porcelain on spark plug cracked, 4th of july party in my engine bay didn't show up until last night.

Well, tested my TPS after having my ranger hesitating on acceleration. Turn out fuel pump is weak, 5psi under minimum value at idle and drainback is pathetic. Goes back to 0psi in 20 seconds. Anyway, I found some weak points doing a resistance test on it, couldn't do a voltage test as the...

Just an update, found what it was when rebuilding the tranny. It's a safety that keeps people from going straight to reverse from 5th. The spring had gotten too weak and was failing. After leaving it out of the rebuild I now have 5th and reverse whenever I want it, not when the tranny thinks I do.

Exact problem my '93 had, found the offending connector, gave it a cleaning, some bends and a squeeze, popped it back in and it still drives down the road just fine to this day. Well, not including the tranny, it still whines, very faintly though.

Not sure what I'm looking for, but looks like you might need a new tie rod end. Not sure if that's correct but it's what it looks like.

From what I found a 3-4" lift will take 31" tires without rubbing. source link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/164125-body-lift-tires-wheels-b3000.html Maybe you could try 30" tires then? Check your rear shackles and hangers first, I lifted my truck a lot just by replacing the rotted...

Anyone know out of what make/model/ year I need for a bolt in replacement? Or would I need to drill some holes? People say buckets are more comfortable, my s15 and f150 have told me differently, so I want one in my ranger.

My goodness, I do feel bad for you. I had to do that on my '93 and it was a pain. I had to drop both shafts and work the rods off a rusted pivot through a hole barely big enough for my short arms. I can see about uploading some pics from a Haynes manual tomorrow as that may be easier than...

Sorry Gherry, I'm new to this whole forums thing, I thought you was talking to me. Oops. Lesson learned, don't reply to a reply unless you've been quoted, or you have information!

Looks very good, I like the American flag on it.

Ah, so a powerdome is a 3d version of a "racing stripe".