EATC prep and testing

Shawn

Shawn

Cranky old man
I finally bench tested my EATC setup and had codes 024 and 041. 024 was because I had swapped the 2 orange/red wires. The code 041 was difficult to trace. I was getting correct signals from the EATC head unit and the actuator tested ok.
According to the write up either actuator will work, 95-97 or 98 up. I found that to be incorrect. I bought a brand new Motorcraft 98 up actuator. I had to repin the 95-97 connector. The system bench tests perfect now with NO codes.

Install time......
 
RoadRanger said:
i want an EATC someday. can't wait to see how it turns out!
Click to expand...


I'll be sure to post photos.

Today after work, I decided to replace the blend door actuator with the EATC one. It is warm outside, so I figure I can do the install one part at a time. Yes it is a pain to change. I dropped one ratchet and had to use another one. You can retrieve your dropped ratchet after you remove the actuator. I was ambitious and reinstalled all three screws. My actuator is brand new Motorcraft so I hope I won't have to change it again. I did pop the actuator open and move the drive gear to the midway point so it would fit into the blend door easily. The whole job took 45 minutes tonight. Sure beats 6 hrs to loosen the dash.
 
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Tonight I worked on pre wiring what I can. The fan controller wiring I got has the whole harness including the blower motor connector. I ended up splicing a new style end on for the speed controller. I got a brand new Motorcraft speed controller. It's the new style with the weatherproof connector. Fleabay for $25.00. Normally you wouldn't need to splice it, if you use the controller from the same vehicle that you get the harness from. I could not pass up a brand new controller for $25.00
Getting the whole harness with about 18" of wire has advantages. The ground is long enough to attach to the inner fender without splicing. Also I can cut the blower harness up on the inner fender and splice in the new part a lot easier than making the splices down beside the blower housing and valve cover.
I soldered and heat shrunk everything. Now I am going to solder up the actuator harness. Finally I am going to extend the 2 inside sensor pigtails. probably solder them up to the pigtail from the EATC head unit. That will enable me to install the 2 sensors and later on just plug the previously terminated harness in to them When I install the head unit.

Last night I swapped in green leds and resistors for the 5 bulbs in the head unit. I still need to do the bulb for the knob. If you do the leds, don't waste your money on the neo wedge led replacement bulbs on fleabay. The EATC has the lighting connections on the opposite side of the PCB. The replacements do not have that connection and will not work. Manual modification of the original neo wedge bulbs is required. I used a write up on cardomain as a guide. You need to place the resistor flat against the socket. If you leave it upright as the guide says, it will hit the main pcb when you reinstall the face on the head unit.

I have a partial wiring harness I salvaged from an engine change done at work. I cut similar color wires from it to use on the EATC setup. The wires are free and much easier to complete the wiring when using similar colors.
 
Drilled the hole and installed the fitting for the air temp hose tonight.
I did something a little different than the others. I got a elbow for a PCV valve. It's the kind that goes into a grommet in the valve cover. I also picked up a grommet. I drilled the hole and put the grommet in. I then stuffed the elbow in the grommet. It's a good seal, but can swivel if I need it to during final installation. It won't fall out and it looks professional.
 
Well progress is slow, but steady. I don't work real well at 85 degrees. Anyway...I finished the harness. Soldered and shrunk wrapped all connections. Pre cut and terminated all the wires for the sensors. Except the outside temp sensor. I made it in 2 six foot lengths. I soldered the wires for the relays and the harness is plug and play.
I mounted the fan controller and soldered those wires also.
I will have to solder the power and fan wires in the dash and plug in the sensors.
I didn't need to solder, but I wanted to take the extra time and do it right. Good permanent connections should be trouble free.
 
It's in..
I still have to install the temp sensor on the rad support and connect the OBD II..
No big deal for those items.
I learned a couple things. If you use Ford relays, you can't tape the relay's to the EATC. The tape won't stick. I tie wrapped them under the dash. If you put the white air hose as pictured in the car domain site, it makes the glove box difficult to close. I put it further over to the right. Right up against the right side of the dash. There is a hole going down that the hose fits right through.

This is not a difficult mod, but it is tedious. You must pay attention to the details. It does take a bit of time to do properly. But WOW it sure is an improvement...
 
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