To weld or to replace?

Discussion in '1998 - 2011 Ford Ranger' started by RileyRocks, Sep 14, 2013.

  1. RileyRocks

    RileyRocks New Member

    20001 New Jersey vehicle, needless to say I no longer live in this state. There are junkyards around and I have already contacted a shop about getting either a rear frame or just plates put on. I do have my own tools and a good sawzall, just need to find a newer ranger frame. Ideas? Not tight on cash, would like to get another 5 years out of her, atleast. Gotta pay off the wife's Jeep. [​IMG]
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  3. djfllmn

    djfllmn ^^^ I am Mr. Clean!

    i wouldnt do it....replace the entire frame
  4. OP

    RileyRocks New Member

    Could you elaborate for me? Right now my frame is 2 parts, there are 8 rivets holding the 2 parts together. I was thinking of having a body shop take those out and possible put a good rear half of a frame on the end and put some thick bolts in there and weld it nice and tight.
  5. djfllmn

    djfllmn ^^^ I am Mr. Clean!

    nope they will only replace it like the factory made the seam...they will not weld it if it wasnt that way from the will alter how the truck performs in a collision...honestly if it was me id just get rid of the truck
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2013
  6. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    If it's a 2001, just replace the back half of the frame.
  7. Fx4wannabe01

    Fx4wannabe01 New Member


    1998 and up frames are modular.....front half and rear half. They are riveted together near the front leaf spring hanger. Is the frame that far gone to need replacing? Or is it the common stuff like rear leaf spring hangers and shackles?

    I've seen some 1998/99 owners needing to swap rear halves but nothing as "new" as yours....but I suppose it all depends on prior owners care of it in the 'belt.

    If both halves are separated properly, this could be an easy weekend job for a couple dudes in a driveway, assuming tools, mechanically inclined, and space is available. I'd attack it myself should the time come.....but THANK YOU Oregon no-salted roads! Just say no to a saw-zall.....grind the rivets off and air hammer the remainder, then bolt it all back together. I would think the hardest part of the swap is the dang rivets and locating a rear frame half.
  8. Scrambler82

    Scrambler82 Old Guy User

    I was talking to Throttle Down Customs (TDC) about a replacement Ranger Frame an d possible mods to it but other than the first few messages I haven’t heard from them.
    My guess is no go on a new HD Frame for the Ranger.

    Frame replacement depending on the amount of rust and work required to fix the old frame. If a lot of frame repair is needed and you can’t do it then the cost will be high and then a used frame in good condition would be a good option. But if we are talking the far rear only there are kit out there for some of the work and if the rear of the frame is removable as Shane mentioned then replacing the whole rear section is a good option.

    I do not find replacing the whole frame a problem, time consuming YES.

    If you can find a good used frame that is another story, most JY frames are worse than the ones on the street.

    Contact TDC and ask about the possibility of making an HD Ranger Frame, he might sell at least two and if there were options like a D44 front with steering box and optional trans cross members the frame thing might go viral.
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2013
  9. kanuck15

    kanuck15 Member

    Having patched a few frames in my life the first issue is its never as "easy" as it looks. There is always way more rust hidden in the frame than you first see. Also having done a rear frame on a ranger. Its stupid easy, just take off the bed, undo the wiring/fuel lines, drop the drive shaft, cut the front hanger rivets out and the rivets holding the frame, roll it back. swap the rear axle over to the new frame, swap the tank to the new frame, roll that thing on up and bolt it into place, then reattach the rest of the stuff
  10. OP

    RileyRocks New Member

    Ok gents I think I need to explain a little better. I have all the tools to remove a bed, a bumper, and knowing that the 98+ rangers are 2 piece frames I have the tools to cut a frame ahead of the rear portion. The issue for me is getting to a place that has a good frame (or pay 700$ for one the company can acquire) and sitting down and doing the work cause most salvage yards here are closed on weekends. From what I'm hearing and from even what this body shop has confirmed I think I'll be doing a half frame swap and then sand blasting, priming and POR-15 the entire frame and call it a day.
  11. Fx4wannabe01

    Fx4wannabe01 New Member

    Perhaps updating your member profile to reflect your location could help us help you locate one. Or point you in the right direction.

    It never hurts contacting your local yards about the possibility of obtaining a rear half...and them pulling it for you. All my local "new car junkyards" here around Portland, Oregon pull all parts themselves. The likelyhood of finding a 98+ at one of those U-pull yards is slim.
  12. OP

    RileyRocks New Member


    It will be that hard? I want to avoid paying 700$ for one of those from a local yard. I'll update my information today.
  13. drppdyllwrngr

    drppdyllwrngr Member

    there is a pick-n-pull down here in wilmington. if it's not your only driver, we can do it in my garage if you don't mind it possibly taking longer than a weekend. we could get the frame one weekend, then start on it the next.
  14. OP

    RileyRocks New Member

    Hey appreciate the replies. I ended up going to LKQ in Greenville and finding a real nice '98 ranger frame and cut it off and I'm getting the rear end swapped out. I ended up paying on 372$ for a good rear half of a frame, leaf springs and all, and wire harness. All I need now is a full size steel bed and I'm golden.
  15. ithasflames

    ithasflames New Member

    Hey Kanuck15, I'm a new member to the forum. I have a 02 ranger and getting ready to swap in a fresh back half. You mentioned dropping the drive shaft and rolling out the rear end. I was thinking I wouldn't touch the drive shaft or rear end. I'd just slide the old section out and slide the new frame section into place and bolt everything back up. Am I missing something? Thanks so much. Jim
  16. top teke

    top teke New Member

    You can't slide anything away if the drive shaft is still connected. It connects the rear axle to the transmission, which lives in the front half of the frame.

    The "rear end" Is the rear axle in this case. It's connected to the rear half of the frame, which you are replacing. If you leave it be you can roll the old frame away and then remove it from the axle. Then you drop your new rear frame on the old axle and roll it back to the truck.

    You don't have to do it that way but it's easy to move it like that is all.
  17. ithasflames

    ithasflames New Member

    Thanks top teke for the reply!!. I finished the project a couple months ago. I did leave the driveshaft and rear end in place. Before any disassembly I simply strapped the rear end to a forward cross member to prevent any movement. Removed the rusted back half and swapped in the new one. No issues.
  18. top teke

    top teke New Member

    So just kind of pulled it off with everything else in place sort of thing? Good deal.
  19. ithasflames

    ithasflames New Member

    Disconnected everything from the rusted back half section; swapped in new back half, reconnected everything. Drive-line remained in place during the swap. Not that bad at all.

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