Replace 3rd member in TTB D35 - Discussion thread

Discussion in 'How-To Submissions' started by Brinker88, Feb 13, 2011.

  1. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    First thing's first: I would NOT try this if you are a novice at automotive or suspension work.

    Tools used:
    Basic set of Wrenches
    Basic set of sockets/ratchets
    Magnet
    Impact gun/sockets
    Vise
    Mini Sledge(3 lb.)
    Deadblow hammer
    Utility Knife
    Rags(lots)
    Breaker bar
    Screwdrivers
    Jackstands (A MUST!!)
    Car Jack
    Lots of light
    PB Blaster
    Seal Puller
    Air cut off wheel (small one)
    Air chisel
    Drain pan
    Silicone

    1.) Chock rear wheels(both sides) .Jack the truck up and put on jackstands. Take front wheels off. Remove front driveshaft.

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    2.) You will see your rotor and caliper. Using a screwdriver or punch, drive out the two pins holding your caliper on. Carefully pry caliper off and put out of the way (do not unbolt brake hose!). Using a bungee or something of sorts, hang caliper out of the way so that it doesnt kink or has any kind of stress put on the hose.

    3.) Pull your hub assembly off if it hasnt come off with your wheel already(sometimes they seize to the wheel and you have to pound them off). You will see the innards of your hub.

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    4.) *Get a board or styrofoam or something to put your parts in order on if you've never torn one of these apart.*

    Using two flathead screwdrivers or snapring pliers (screwdrivers worked better for me) push the snapring off of the axle shaft. Set it aside. Next, pull the axle shaft spacer off and set it aside. Using your magnet, remove the small key locking the spindle nut in place. Set aside. Using a socket (its BIG, by the way, get it at the auto parts store) or a screwdriver and hammer, carefully lossen your spindle nut and remove it. Set it aside (be careful when you remove the spindle nut as the rotor might rock down). After removing the spindle nut, you will see a thin plastic washer behind the spindle nut. Set it aside.

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    5.) You should now be able to remove the rotor. The front bearing might fall out so be careful with it. Remove rotor and set aside (I know, this is getting old). Turn rotor over and inspect your inner bearing and seal. If bad, replace. My inner wheel bearing was seized to the spindle. Slightly heat it and hit it with the air chisel. Pops right off.

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    6.) To remove the spindle, unbolt the 5 nuts. With a deadblow hammer, lightly tap spindle to loosen and remove. I ended up using an air chisel and lots of PB Blaster on the side of the spindle because it was rusted fast. Remove and inspect bearing and seal on the inside of spindle.

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    _______________Do this to both sides and then you can continue___________________________________________
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    7.) On the driver side, pull the axleshaft out slowly so that you dont mess up the seal. On the passenger side, cut the clamps holding the rubber boot on the axle shaft (under the vehicle). Pull axleshaft out and set aside.

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    *Now is the time that I put the FRAME of the truck on jackstands and let the axle hang loose. Some of the folks I've discussed this next step with would remove the driver side radius arm and coil. Others say to just simply "notch" your radius arm to remove the alignment bolt on the 3rd member. I chose to notch the radius arm. This is where your air cut off wheel comes in handy as a regular grinder/cutoff wheel wont fit.*


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    I like to clean up parts as I go

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    8.) Unbolt the passenger side axle pivot bolt and remove. Push up as FAR as it will go (about 1.5 inches).

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    9. Look under the vehicle on the driver side. You will see by the radius arm that there is a bolt (approx. 4.5" in length). Take the nut off. Notch the radius arm JUST ENOUGH for the bolt to slide past it. Take your air chisel and remove the bolt.

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    10.) Unbolt the bolts that hold the 3rd member to the axle(there's ten of them.) Drain the gear oil
    11.) Now, this is a PAIN in the ass.... Remove the 3rd member. You will have to wrestle with it for awhile before it comes out. Be careful when it does because it is HEAVY.
    12.)Scrape off old gasket material from front of differential and 3rd member. Install new silicone generously. Let set up for about 5 minutes.
    13.) Installation is the reversal of removal. Replace anything that needs replaced. DONT FORGET GEAR OIL!!!

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 17, 2011
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  3. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    I moved this to the How to submissions dude
     
  4. OP
    Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Thanks Clinton
     
  5. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    Anytime! If you have more throw them out there man!!
     
  6. OP
    Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    F150 coils into a ranger is coming next. Also Balljoints. How To's will follow
     
  7. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    You rock man! Keep them coming dude!
     

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