Overheated -now won't start

I

Inov8tn

New Member
Hi -

RE: '94 Ranger 2.3L SOHC 2wd mt

Is there a typical electrical problem that occurs after overheating?

I was headed to the side of the interstate with the temp guage pegged, spewing steam from somewhere and the engine was spinning right along but suddenly lost all power.

Replaced water pump (it was beyond dead) and for good measure the thermostat.

Filled it up to test for pressure, leaks, temp control but it refused to start.

The fuel pump runs. The tail pipe smells of gasoline.

The PCM Power Relay is almost new.

Is there some electrical issue that typically occurs after an overheat?

Thanks!

- Bill

 
Did you check your oil? If it's gray, you have much bigger problems. Also, you might want to check to make sure your timing belt is still there... Just a couple of ideas.
 
Update - Have plenty of spark...

and timing seems OK but...

(LOL "...sawsall & duct tape...") Funny! :D

Compression is pretty bad. Cyl 1-4::60 53 30 125
eek.gif


Will add oil just before repeating compression check to try to get a sense of whether the piston rings are at fault.

Looks like I'm about to get very familiar with this great little 205K mi engine.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Engine rebuild

Hi All -

Update:

Wet Compression (10 ml 10W-30 motor oil in each cyl before test)
Cyl 1-4:: 80-90 90-90 90-60 210-210

(Note: Second number is addl compression test w/o new oil 5-10 min after first test).

So...

I'm looking for an good engine rebuilder in the Charlotte-Greensboro, NC corridor.

Suggestions/References?

Thanks!
 
Check out the local Ford dealer for a Ford remanufactured engine, the price might be more competative than you think.
 
Saga Continues - little problem::Big Aggravation

Thanks for the tip re the remanufactured engine - It may come to that.

For now I'm still pursuing the diagnosis. (Got side tracked for a couple of days)

I've gotten the manifolds, & timing belt off, and studs are out but the head remains firmly attached to the block.

I'm guessing that some varnish is holding the head gasket seal in tact.

I've tried banging on the OHC bearing mounts to no avail.

There doesn't seem to be an obvious place to pry the head from the block.

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance. :yes:

- Bill
 
You probably have the head off by now, just to add support to your efforts, it can be a real chore. I always used a long 30' prybar which was rounded down to a point. It fit into a head bolt hole and jarring it sideways was able to tear the gasket loose. People think, How can the gasket be blown when I can't get it apart? Which comes to a vital thing for you to have done. Have a valve job jone on the head for two reasons, one is it will be eliminating warped valves (overheated) and two, the heads can crack from port to port, as soon as the seat grinder hits the head it will reveal its ugly self. Also have the head milled or machined to correct for head warpage. Hope this info gets to you in time, was back in L.A. at my grandsons 6th birthday. Good luck.
 
head still not off :(

Tried a 1/2" breaker bar in an inlet port. Bar was 24" from outside of port to grip. Pried up to break head loose. No joss. Bent bar.larger bar won't fit into port. Looking for different bar & new approach.

Suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Humbled again

Update: Found the two bolts that hold the A/C Compressor & P/S Pump Bracket to the head.

The head is off.

The head gasket came off with the head and there are *no* obvious cuts between the cylinders.
 
As Bill said, find a reliable machine shop and have all of that done to the head. You might also want to have new cam bearings and a new cam installed along with new followers, this stuff is not expensive. These 2.3's are very reliable motors, the bottom end looks almost identical to a 302 and are rock solid. Keep us posted.
 
Thanks!

Thank you for your interest.

'Roger' on the strong engine.

I miked the bores last night Top-B, Left-R. Nothing oval. There might be a little aluminum scuff on the top back of #3 bore which is uniquely 0.005" too big.

So right now my thinking is to get the head checked for flatness by a shop and then if it needs planing have that done and if planing requires disassembly then check the valves and valve guides. If I have to remove the cam shaft then check it and the cam bearings.

If everything is within spec I expect I'll just go ahead and reinstall the head.

This truck has 205K mi on it and I don't want to do work that isn't needed to get it running - at least until I replace the rear wheel bearing in my car. Then if I have one vehicle running right I can get on with my life and investigate optionals on the other one.
 
All's well that ends well

The *second* replacement was basically OK. Had it shaved. Machinist pronounced it OK.

Replaced the head, timing belt, gaskets and it started up on the first turn of the key.

Did a compression test: 1 & 4 are 12 psi higher at about 165 each.

Idle is strong even though there is no spark to #3 on the Exhaust side.

Is there further diagnosis to be done or is the answer to just replace the coil pack?

Thanks!
 
Replaced rear (exhaust side) Coil Pack

Idle is stronger.

Have two codes: 335 & 513

335: EGR (PFE) Sensor Voltage out of Range
513: Internal Voltage Failure - PCM

Planning on chasing the EGR code first.
 
you just got a spark problem ... could be anything from a bad plug .. to wire ... to distributor ... you gotta check 'em all .. its not hard to do
 
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