Need some help changing the plugs and wires on my truck!

Discussion in '3.0 Engine' started by Dcrymes99ranger, May 10, 2012.

  1. Dcrymes99ranger

    Dcrymes99ranger Riding low and broke!!!

    So It's time to change the plugs and wires on my truck. I'm going in the morning to work and get my Motor craft plugs and wires. I have also bought myself a 5/8 socket and extension. Diode electric grease and antisense. What else consist of changing the plugs and wires. I've never done this myself. A guy quoted me 150.00 to change them out. I don't have that kind of money to do it. Plus I wanna learn myself how to do it so I can do a write up for the site to help others. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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  3. SalRanger2

    SalRanger2 Ranger Lover

    its basically just unscrew the old and put the new in, same with wires and make sure the wires are matched up to cylinders and the lengths are the same. and gap them to spec (in owners manual or like on the core support sticker i think) another thing is if it doesnt have a split lock washer on the plug, there is torque specs on them. probably more critical if you have aluminium heads im guessing. i torqued mine when i did them (like 22ish lb/ft i think), but i dont think alot of ppl do it but i did lol. found the specs on autolites site i believe
  4. OP

    Dcrymes99ranger Riding low and broke!!!

    They were gaped at work today. Well the computer said to gap them at .044 and they were gaped at .050. So I had to take the spark plug tool and bend the electrode connector back down and regap them. I paid 3.44 a plug and then I paid 43.00 for my wires. Not bad ehh for a discount. So they are basicly just a plug and play? I'll hand tighten them in with the socket and then half a turn with the wrench. Are they hard to get too? I have extensions!
  5. SalRanger2

    SalRanger2 Ranger Lover

    nice price! yep just plug and play. just do one wire and plug at a time thats easiest, and when you take out your old wire match it up with one of your new ones because some of the can be close but different, just so you get the correct length for that plug. (hope that wasnt confusing lol)
    yea id say get them in tight though dont want them to blow out, just that i think an aluminium head you could go too tight, just like torquing aluminum wheels.

    if its like my old 91 3.0 it shouldnt be too bad! as long as there isnt much crap in the way. might have to go through the inner fender hole behind the wheel if some are hard to get at from the top but idk.
    probably alot eaiser than my 2.5! using a foot of extensions through the intake runners is no fun!
  6. doyouquaxu

    doyouquaxu FUUUUUUUUUUUUU

    it might be easier to jack up the truck and take the wheels off. i ended up going through my wheel well when i did mine a few months ago. but seriously, it's easy as pie. salranger2 mentioned everything really.
  7. it is easier to do when the wheel is off the passenger side ,go up through the wheel well area. but again do one plug and wire at a time.
  8. Well, to show off a bit I got autolite double platinums and professional 8mm wires for the price you paid on the wires alone. :thumbup: Gloating over. It's real simple. The length of the new wires may be slightly longer than the old ones, but should generally match up. Do em one at a time as to not mess with the firing order. It'll help you too to look at my 4.0 write up I did, as the plugs should be in virtually the same arrangement.
  9. 01B3000

    01B3000 ORIGINAL Portable Seizure

    Only one that's a bit of a pain in the ass is the one next to the heater box, but its not hard at all.

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