Coming up on 200k

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Timbootz, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    Alright I'm about to hit the big 200k in my 1997 XLT 2wd 4.0L... looking for ideas on what I shouldr be thinking I replacing.

    Currently:
    Rear drum brakes just replaced.
    Front disc, rotor and wheel bearings going to do in the next week.
    Altenator replaced 5 months ago.
    Battery replaced about 1 year ago.
    IAC replaced last month.
    I change the oil every 3000mi or 3 months.
    Air filter every 15k tired rotates every 6k or 6 months and they are about 1 year old.
    Fuses are good.
    Replaced driver side seatbelt buckle
    Replaced instrument cluster lights last month


    Thinking...
    Rear differential fluid change (Chilton says that post 97 they are sealed for life..thoughts?)
    Fuel filter
    Spark plugs (should I do the wires as well?)
    Planning on doing the shocks in the next month.

    Should I...
    Flush the tranny
    Flush the radiator
    What about sensors? Should I expect them to be going soon?

    Anything I am missing? Overall the truck has been well cares for (I think), thoughts?

    Thanks
     
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  3. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    Welcome to the forum, Tim! 200K is quite a milestone, for sure! Since it appears you keep your truck well maintained, it shouldn't be too hard to keep it going for another 100K. Looking over your list, it looks like things that I would be doing, with some exceptions. First off, if post 1997 rear diffs are sealed for life, then I screwed up by pulling the fill plug on mine to check the level! LOL Anyway, yes to changing the diff fluid, fuel filter, plugs (wires too), and shocks... all good things to do providing they actually need it. At 200K, stay away from the trans fluid. Fresh fluid in that old trans can cause more problems than you can imagine. Radiator flush is a good idea. As long as the truck is running well, I would say the sensors are doing fine. You can purchase a cheap code scanner <$100 and they will report if you have a sensor not doing its job. So, in a nutshell, you are on the right track (in my opinion).
     
  4. OP
    Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    Thanks mhoward. So what to do about the tranny? I have recently started feeling a hard shift around 2nd when accelerating from braking, i.e. slowing forms light and the light changes so you accerate. Was thinking a tranny flush might help with that. Or do you think maybe a new MAF?
     
  5. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    Well, it is risky flushing and filling an old trans with fresh fluid. The fresh fluid is high in detergents that immediately start scrubbing the sludge out of the trans. That can cause leaks both externally and internally. Let me emphasize CAN. It doesn't always do that. It is, of course, your call. Worst that can happen is you have to have the trans rebuilt (and you may be heading that direction already). As for the MAF, are you experiencing a problem with it? As I mentioned previously, get a cheap scanner and see if the sensors are throwing any codes (although your CEL should be warning you if they were). Just arbitrarily replacing things can get expensive, so don't jump to conclusions concerning these things. :)
     
  6. OP
    Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    All good calls. Looking at the pruie of a MAF, wow.. Probably just start getting into the habit I cleaning it with CRC MAF cleaner ($8/can) when I change the air filter for preventative purpose. I think I can get a code reader to borrow at autozone. My check engine light has come on a couple of times in the last year but only stayed on for about a day, maybe 2 before going out, and I have never failed an emission test.
     
  7. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    Interesting that the CEL stayed on for only a day... they usually don't act that way. Cleaning the MAF routinely is a good habit to get into and YES!, use the actual MAF cleaner spray.
     
  8. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    Re: diff "sealed for life".
    That's like "never needs a tune up" because it has DIS ignition.
    It's all marketing BS. Even the guys at Ford admit it was just marketing hoopla so they could sell their "No Maintenance Warrenty's".
    Every mechanical...object needs some form of maintenance or it will eventually fail to perform prematurely. Plain and simple.
    My '98 uses the same 7.5" Salisbury-type rear axle as any S-10 has....I mean, really; 3.45:1, 3.73, 4.10....those aren't Ford gears, those are CHEVY gears.
    It's because they're sourcing those axles from the same place.
    Granted, its not like you gotta change the diff fluid every other week, but what if you have change an axle bearing, or if you got water inside the axle.
    You've got to be able to drain and refill that axle in order to keep the vehicle maintenanced....and if there ain't a fill plug already install in that pumpkin, get a drill, a tap and a plug and make one.


    Dean
     
  9. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    ...as for the rest of your question...

    Timbootz wrote: Alright I'm about to hit the big 200k in my 1997 XLT 2wd 4.0L... looking for ideas on what I shouldr be thinking I replacing.

    Tim - I'm going to interject my comments into your post. My comments will be in red.

    Currently:
    Rear drum brakes just replaced.
    Front disc, rotor and wheel bearings going to do in the next week.
    Altenator replaced 5 months ago.
    Battery replaced about 1 year ago - Batteries only have a 5 year life. Use that as your guide for changing them out, but you can do a load test to see if they're any good.
    IAC replaced last month.
    I change the oil every 3000mi or 3 months.
    Air filter every 15k tired rotates every 6k or 6 months and they are about 1 year old. - That's fine. I change AF and FF with tune-up's and it's always worked.
    With tire rotation, I have studded tires I put on during the winter months. I rotate the tires in the sping when I pull the studs. I found it takes longer to pull the studs and rotate, as opposed to just putting the studs on, so why do all that work during the cold time of the years. Save it for the warmer weather times.

    Fuses are good. - fuses aren't a regularly maintenanced item. They work until they don't then you simply replace them. You might want to investigate what made that fuse blow, though.
    Replaced driver side seatbelt buckle
    Replaced instrument cluster lights last month


    Thinking...
    Rear differential fluid change (Chilton says that post 97 they are sealed for life..thoughts?) - see my prior post/rant.
    Fuel filter - a good guide is to change FF with the AF and those items should be part of the tune-up.
    Spark plugs (should I do the wires as well?) - always R&R ALL ignition items as part of a tune-up. Your ignition is DIS, so you need to change both plugs and wires. What you need to research is whether or not you need to get a gasket for the intake manifold, because its going to need to be moved to do a PROPER tune-up.
    Planning on doing the shocks in the next month. - to check shocks, rock each end of the vehicle and watch how much it bounces, It should go up and down once after you stop rocking it. If it keeps bouncing more that that, its time to change the shocks. Otherwise, they're fine.

    Should I...
    Flush the tranny - I don't agree with tranny flushes. It's just a way for shops to make $$$. AT fluid (its an automatic, right?) is a solvent, so it's always cleaning. What you might want to think about is changing out the filter. There's a filter inside of all AT's and they need to be changed out from time to time. I've never heard of a maintenance schedule for them, but figure every 3-5 years unless there's a problem and the tranny needs to be repaired.
    Flush the radiator - Yes and change the hoses if they're original. Becareful, though. I had a hell of a time burping my radiator after I replaced it.
    What about sensors? Should I expect them to be going soon? - They're like fuses. They work until they don't, then you simply replace it.

    Anything I am missing? Overall the truck has been well cares for (I think), thoughts? - How are the tires? When's the last time you changed out the wiper blades? We're getting to that "Wiper" time of the year. It would really suck to have your wiper blades fall apart during the rainiest night in 20 years, while you're trying to get home....on the freeway.

    Thanks
    You're welcome and welcome to the forum. =)
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2017
  10. OP
    Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    Dean,

    All awesome point and sounds like some sound suggestions.
    I do plan on doing the diff, this many miles and I dont think it could hurt anyway and it is pretty low cost to do anyways just gear oils RST and time.

    You bring up a good point about the AT filter. I was just reading about that I chilton. Gonna look into that.

    I live in the PNW, we don't use wipers...just kidding, I go throught a pair annually up here, most because I frosts tearing the rubber eventually. I use a rainex super fluid as well and I just redid the wiper fluid lines.

    Tired are pretty new, maybe 1.5 yeara old from Led Schwab so I get free tire rotations do life and by God in go in to take advantage I that so I get them rotated regularly.

    I do believe it is time for my shocks, they are a bit soft and squeck quite a bit. I ha and researched what I'm founf to replace them with yet. Any suggestions would be great, figure 90% paved 10% dirt roads.

    I am also going to start regularly cleaning my MAF when I switch out my airfilters.

    Roger that in plugs and cables..I'll look I do the gasket question.

    I haven't had any problems with fuses??

    Still need to mount my high band 2meter VHF radio, but that is more a HAM group, and figure id get in of my SAR buddies to help with that since it is a search and rescue radio.

    I appreciate guys taking the time to write ideas and suggestions.
     
  11. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    Tim,

    Shocks don't squeak (except maybe at the bushings. Keep reading, there's more about that).
    What you're hearing are bushings. Grab some spray lube (I recommend Kroil, but LPS or WD is fine, too), spray into all the bushings you can find. Also, between the leaves of the rear springs.....see if that doesn't help.
    Lastly....you have a pm. =)


    Dean
     
  12. OP
    Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    For spark plugs in thinking of doing motorcarft sp-500 plugs for my '97. Chilton (cringe) suggests motorcraft AWSF-42PP or equlvalent. So are they equivalent. According to AutoZone they got my make and model and engine. I have heard good things about the plugs..Thoughts? SP-500 are AGSF-22FM s wondering if they are equivalent to AWSF-42PP?
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017
  13. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    Those sound like Ford part numbers, and if so, then they would be different. How? I have no idea. Spark plugs often differentiate by heat range and physical size.
    A very smart man, who taught a tech class that was sponsored by a company I once worked for, told us that a good rule of thumb for spark plugs are to use the factory "brand" plugs for whatever make of engine you're tuning up.
    In this case, the choice would be Motorcraft (not Autolite. Once upon a time, they were also a "Ford spark plug" but these days they're cheapies).
    So use whatever part # Ford recommends for that engine (a quickie search brought up partsgeek.com and they show AGSF-22F fits a 1997 4.0L in a Ranger).

    ...or, you can use Delco's. I've had good luck with AC Delco's regardless of make. ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2017
  14. OP
    Timbootz

    Timbootz New Member

    Thanks Dean, that partgeek link will be useful. Guess I'll go with the sp-500 (22pp). Still a bewildering number I system used for plugs.
    :/
     
  15. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    yeah, Ford part #'s in general are pretty bewildering.
     
  16. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    Actually, FORD part numbers are designed very well. The plug numbers you guys are bouncing back and forth are Motorcraft numbers. An actual Ford part number is designed to identify the part/part group without knowing the part description. For example, Ford part number D9AZ-1001-A is a wheel designed for a 1979 Ford LTD. How do I know this based solely on the part number? The first section (D9AZ) breaks down as follows:
    D - Design Era. C = 1960's / D = 1970's / E = 1980's...
    9 - Design Year: Obviously, this would be year 9 in the 1970's era, meaning 1979
    A - Model Line: A= full size, such as LTD / B= mid size, such as Fairmont/Fairlane / C= compact, such as Pinto/Falcon / T= trucks (this is the model line it was DESIGNED for. Could be used on anything later)
    Z - Origin: I never really got into this part because 99% of the parts were "Z"

    The second section (1001) designates the actual part (1001 is a wheel in this example) A D9AZ-1130-A would be a wheel cover for the same 1979 LTD

    The third section is a revision level. "A", of course, is the first revision. If something minor changes in the design, then the revision changes to B, C or whatever. You will sometimes see codes such as AB or AD

    Bear in mind that a part number you see stamped or molded into a part isn't necessarily the part number. These can be close, and help identify the vehicle it is designed for, but a part designed for a Fairmont could easily be found on a pickup truck as well.

    I learned this when I was a parts manager for a Ford dealership in the late '70s ~ early '80s. I *HAVE* noticed deviations to this part number design over the years (with the first section format), so not sure what that is about. It appears the main (second) section has retained its format integrity over the years.

    Anyway, there you have it: Ford Part Numbers 101. I'm SURE you will use that information every day for the rest of your lives (not)! LOL :)
     
  17. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    ...oops...looks like we touched a nerve....sorry Mr, Howard....
     
  18. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    LMAO No nerve touched! Just tossing out information that may (or may not) be useful to you, or anyone reading this thread. I worked in parts for several years NAPA, CarQuest, Ford, GM and John Deere (the last three as manager). There are lots of different parts systems, I just think Ford had the best one. Always found it easier than just a bunch of random numbers and letters to identify a part. If my previous post came off as snarky, I am sorry... it wasn't intended to be.
     
    Timbootz likes this.
  19. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    Well! I never!......worked a parts counter, so maybe I spoke out of turn. ;)
     
  20. mhoward

    mhoward Member

    I actually wish I had stayed with it. When I was parts manager at John Deere, I was thrown face-first into the computer world (this was the mid-1980s). I was tasked with installing and implementing a new in-house computer system to order, inventory and invoice parts as well as all the accounting functions. When I got finished and all was working, I thought "hey, that was kind of fun". So I started a career in the computer field. 30+ years later, I would rather be selling parts and managing that. Hindsight; such a useless thing to have because it is a lesson learned way too late... :)
     
  21. DeanMk

    DeanMk Member

    LOL! If we only knew, right?
    I remember trying to do the books on a computer at a music store I spent a little time at.
    This was the late 90's and I hadn't operated a computer since the class I took in high school....in the 70's. =0
    Boss was all about doing it the old way and the manager and I were trying to nudge him into the computer age.
    He actually had an accountant that would do the books for him, but she left for another position, so I gave it a shot.
    Failed miserably. He finally had to do it all by hand.
    He wasn't mad, or even disappointed. We all just chalked it up to a learning experience and moved on.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017

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