Clicking noise when trying to start

Discussion in '1993 - 1997 Ford Ranger' started by ksrcrider, May 19, 2009.

  1. ksrcrider

    ksrcrider New Member

    i have a 97 ford ranger iv had it about a year now when i first got it it had a bad battier in it so i got a new one. I heard a click noise which sounded like it was coming from the front driver side fender it clicked a few times then started up then it happened a few months later same thing few clicks started today i started it up and it seemed like the battier was losing power but started up i stopped some where and when started the truck up it almost didnt turn over then i stopped some where to get something to eat came out and all i got was clicks. turned the key over to see the battier metter showed it had power radio working fine head lights didnt seem dim so i tried to jump it and just clicks soo i had to push start it. could it be battier or bad ground the starter has rust on it or could the starter just be old and worn out
    Last edited: May 19, 2009
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  3. mrcarcrazy

    mrcarcrazy New Member

    That's the starter a 12 buck part...sometimes you can wack it with a hammer to make it work again....temporary fix at best....replace it and your woes will end.

    copy and paste everything below.[I@1ead025&currentPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=16400102&parentId=cat10019&fromString=&fromWhere=null&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&categoryDisplayName=Starting+%26+Charging&_requestid=500567
    Last edited: May 19, 2009
  4. wahip

    wahip New Member

    Same issue with my 94- 2.3 Ranger. A single "clack" when trying to start. (Clicks would indicate low voltage at the starter-mounted solenoid).
    Was able to start by jumping across the fender-mounted solenoid, (key-on, IN NUETRAL!) so I replaced it, ($12 @ AZ).
    This seemed to work for about a week, then the problem returned. Re-diagnosed as a bad starter. Starter replaced ($120) and this cured the issue. Also, you will want to check ALL the ground wires for a tight, no-corrosion connection at both ends. And, if the alternator output is good, also have the battery tested. A marginal battery or bad cell can also reduce the available amperage required to close the circuit. Good luck!

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