brake line replacement

Discussion in 'Maintenance Shop' started by SeanL, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. SeanL

    SeanL New Member

    So I jump in my 2.5l 99 and no brakes, but I managed to not hit my stang, phew. The steel line on the drivers side is nothing but chunks of rust, and the fluid was spraying out all over the drive shaft a few inches before the brake hose connection. Will it be easier to just replace the entire line from the engine back and what size do I need? I have searched and read that I might need to flare some tube I can just buy, but they were guessing on the size. I want to be fully prepared and get this thing done all in one go since it is supposed to snow this weekend and my work takes a lot of time. Thanks for any help!
  2. Captured Time

    Captured Time watch this and hold on

    i would say go to napa and get all new lines. just take off your line from the conectors and take it in with you. the line should just go up to the brake pump i would think.
  3. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Is it the one that goes the whole length of the vehicle on the driver side? I.E from the ABS proportioning valve to the rubber hose on the rear axle? If so, yes it's a lot easier to replace. You'll need about 11 feet of it (two 6 ft pieces of 3/16 line with a 1/4" adapter)
  4. Captured Time

    Captured Time watch this and hold on

    this guy knows his stuff^^^^
  5. Black mamba

    Black mamba The mannnn

    This.. On my truck however I was able to form One solid line and snake it from rear axel rubber line to block near the drivers door.
  6. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family


    Been there done that numerous times on numerous rangers :thumbup:
  7. SeanL

    SeanL New Member

    Nice, thanks everyone. I imagine I have to buy a flaring tool. But do I also need a bending tool or does the line usually not crush on you when you bend it, within reason of course. I have to get a bleeder tool too, I suppose. I just hope the hoses don't fall apart on me when I disconnect them. And yes, it is the line going all the way up front.

    Thanks
  8. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    You dont need a flaring tool or a bleeder tool if you replace the whole line and have a freind help you bleed it. As with all our rangers, we have proportioning valves, so you only have to bleed the rear of the truck when you only have air in the rear.

    Have a buddy get in the cab of the truck (take the cap off your MC). You get under the truck. When you get the bleeders loose yell "open" and have him push the pedal to the floor and HOLD IT THERE until you close the bleeder valve back up. Repeat until no bubbles come out and a solid stream of fluid comes out. Keep checking the MC's fluid level.

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