3.0 oil pan

ob269

ob269

New Member
As some may know when I first got my truck, I noticed my oil pan had a patch on the side.. well it never leaked so I just let it go.. over the past couple weeks I noticed that there has been quite a substantial amount of oil leaking from the truck(thought it was the bolt in oil pan cause ******* before me had stripped it and sealed the bolt in w silicon, I got a new plug with a rubber/plastic washer and that stopped the leaking)

Now when I say substantial amount I mean a lot, I changed my oil on Sunday 1/15 and then yesterday when I pulled the plug(to silicon my bolt in as a temp fix) I realized that my oil is leaking from that patch, and I had MAYBE a quart and a half left drain out, and that was with me adding an extra quart a day or two before due to the leak..

So basically after all this rambling I've just done, I would like to know if anyone has changed the oil pan on a 3.slow, and what I'm looking at to do this..
 
Brinker88 said:
Unbolt the motor mounts, jack it up, stick a 4x4 (wood) under them, let the jack back down. You SHOULD have enough room to remove it with the suspension still in place.

Edit: Oh wait, nm you have a 98...i believe you have to remove the whole damn engine.

Use this:

http://www.rangerforum.net/f29/chilton-online-manual-2206/

Should tell you EXACTLY what needs done.
Click to expand...

FFFUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!!!!!
I read your first part and started thinking, phew this won't be too bad! Then I saw your edit and now I am disappointed.. and sad..
 
PATH: Engine Mechanical > Engine Mechanical Components > Oil Pan > Removal & Installation > 3.0L Engine Print
3.0L Engine

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the oil level dipstick.
  3. Remove the fan shroud. Leave the fan shroud over the fan assembly.
  4. Remove the motor mount nuts from the frame.
WARNING On models equipped with distributor ignition, failure to remove the distributor will damage or break it when the engine is lifted.

  1. If equipped, mark and remove the distributor assembly from the engine.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the oil level sensor wire.
  3. Drain the engine oil from the crankcase into a suitable container and dispose of it properly.
CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

  1. Remove the starter motor from the engine.
  2. Remove the transmission inspection cover.
  3. Remove the right hand axle I-Beam. The brake caliper must be removed and secured out of the way. Refer to the necessary service procedures.
  4. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts, using a suitable lifting device, raise the engine about 2 inches. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
Oil pan fits tightly between the transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing the oil pan from the engine.
  1. Clean all gasket surfaces on the engine and oil pan. Remove all traces of old gasket and/or sealer.
To install:
  1. Apply a 4mm bead of RTV sealer to the junctions of the rear main bearing cap and block, and the front cover and block. The sealer sets in 15 minutes, so work quickly!
  2. Apply adhesive to the gasket mating surfaces and install oil pan gasket.
  3. Install the oil pan on the engine block.
85553203.gif

Oil pan installation for the 3.0L engine

Click to Enlarge
  1. Tighten the pan bolts EVENLY to 9 ft. lbs. working from the center to the end position on the oil pan.
  2. Install low-oil level sensor connector. Lower engine assembly to original position.
  3. Install right hand axle I-Beam. Install the brake caliper. Refer to the necessary service procedures.
  4. Install transmission inspection cover. Install starter motor.
  5. Lower the vehicle and install the fan shroud.
  6. Install motor mount retaining nuts. If removed, install distributor assembly.
  7. Replace the oil level dipstick. Connect the battery ground. Fill crankcase with the correct amount of new engine oil. Start engine and check for leaks.
  8. If equipped with distributor ignition, check the base ignition timing.
 
Okay, yea, that's officially confusing.

I even tried switching the year to a 1999 and it still said remove the I-beam
 
Yeah, I thought the i-beams were the 3rd gen suspension, but was confused as why the chilton says to remove something that's not there..
 
Would have either had to pull engine or pull the front pumpkin and driveshafts.. mine turned out to be two tiny holes smaller then a bb and I used this 'quick steel' sh it I found at walmart and that sealed my pan right up..
 
OK,
thanks, Mine is not leaking but I do belive that I need to change the oil pump. I cralled under and it does not look like I can get it off with the transmition in place. Hoping to find someone on this forum that has done this.
Thanks again.
 
I replaced the pan on mine (a 2000 3.0 4x4 auto). I posted somewhere else, so I've copied that below:

When I was at the Ford dealer last to get a new radiator support I asked what the torque spec was for the oil pan bolts and the lady was nice enough to print out the work instructions for changing the oil pan.

They are good except you don't need to remove the flexplate/ flywheel. You may, as in my case, have to loosen the transmission bolts and take a pry bar and move it back a half inch or so for the pan to clear the bell housing dust shield. Mine got wedged b/n the dust shield and the back of the oil pump.

The quick version is: Drop the front diff, remove the starter, loosen bolts on transmission and move it back a little, remove pan bolts and the pan.

The work instructions give the tightening sequence...which might be helpful.

It was a pain but I didn't have to pull the engine, you don't have to mess with any engine mounts.

Good Luck, and feel free to ask me questions and I'll try to remember what I did.
 
Last edited:
ob269 said:
Would have either had to pull engine or pull the front pumpkin and driveshafts.. mine turned out to be two tiny holes smaller then a bb and I used this 'quick steel' sh it I found at walmart and that sealed my pan right up..
Click to expand...

wait! you sealed it up with what? and you found it in walmart? I just found two small holes in my oil pan on my 95 3.0. But if I can jack the motor up on it to remove I will get another one. My problem is that the 2 small holes look to have come from the inside out!!
 
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