Hi,
My two cents.....
I am a firm believer of care for it, maintain it keep it.
Oil is cheaper than motors. Although it might excessive it is true. The oil in your vehicle rarely breaks down unless overheated, it does get contaminated and that contamination is what causes abrasive wear. If your fluids are not "clear", they are contaminated to some degree. Pretty simple concept. Several of my vehicles have several 100,000 on them. If you change your oil every 3,500 miles that is my limit. Or if you think it is better to save the $1000 of oil changes and replace the motor instead that works too.
As far as shocks, that is a ride and handling issue, they have nothing to do with "shock" as in the hit that happens from a pothole or bump. They absorb the recoil of the suspension from shooting you into the air like a slingshot or gag gift can of snakes. Especially for handling rear shocks help control the hop effect on rough roads that are not straight.
If the differential cover is that bad.... Assess the whole frame there could be frame issue if there is excessive scaling.
Ball joints. NOTHING IS PERMANENTLY LUBRICATED. PERIOD.
Get a needle grease adapter and inject grease through the boot at the rear facing spot so air or water have the least chance to contaminate while driving.
Yes I clean my alloy wheels. The old fashioned way, elbow grease works every time.
I take my wheels of course brush and wash them with Dawn DWdetergent, the frist time I start course and use whatever grit is required to get it clean. If you really want it right I can give you my process. It depends if they are sealed with a clear coating.
I strip those and start from scratch. This takes patience and it takes me a full day or more to do four wheels. My VW took every bit of a full Saturday, my dodge took two full weekends. Or you could pay someone to do it right, insist on strip and recoat, and it will be 50~$75 Per wheel for a good job.
Anyway , back to the shop for me, hope this helps you.
Tom