4.11 or 4.56?

rangerguy95

rangerguy95

New Member
I blew up the ring and pinion in my front diff so I was just gunna save for higher gear ration for when I wanna put on 33x12.50s which would be better to go to 4.11 or 4.56
 
Do you do city or highway as majority of your driving?

4.56 will give you better acceleration, and city MPG. But 4.10 will give you better highway Mpg.

Personally, I do lots of highway, so when I get 33's this spring, I'm staying with my 4.10 gears.
 
rangerguy95 said:
I blew up the ring and pinion in my front diff so I was just gunna save for higher gear ration for when I wanna put on 33x12.50s which would be better to go to 4.11 or 4.56
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Correct terminology is a lower gear ratio (which is actually a higher numerical number), which is why there's much confusion.


If you're going to go ahead and do gears, obviously go with 4.56. Especially since you're a 3.0 owner considering 33's. DON'T FORGET TO MATCH THE REAR TOO. Just remember the cost....can't do one without doing the other. If you're not prepared to shell out a grand (or more) for front & rear gears, just go whatever your stock ratio is. If your stock ratio is 3.73, seriously consider finding some 4.10 axles to put under it and call it good.

If you can afford it, gearing it up is the best thing you can do for a 3.0 on bigger tires. My friend's 2wd Edge 3.0 on 35's 5spd actually goes fairly well with 4.56's. Keeps up with my 4x4 4.88 35's 4.0 5spd. But mines more well rounded, just as your 3.0 on 33's and 4.56 will be.
 
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I do mostly city driving and woods driving, highway on holidays of course, but yea i wanna max out at 33s no bigger, so 4.56s is the way to go? cuz I am gunna do front and back cuz my front is blown up and my rear is leaking since the pinion seal blew
 
rangerguy95 said:
I do mostly city driving and woods driving, highway on holidays of course, but yea i wanna max out at 33s no bigger, so 4.56s is the way to go? cuz I am gunna do front and back cuz my front is blown up and my rear is leaking since the pinion seal blew
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She'll be higher in the rpm's on the highway until the 33's are put on. But it'll definitely be great for city driving, hilly road driving, and all around driving once the 33's are on. Not to mention, fuel mileage will be acceptable and drivability will be awesome. Gears were one of the best things I did for mine. Esp being a manual and the SOHC that LOOOOOVE rpm's.

Take note, doing gears isn't a simple bolt-on.... requires specialized tools and patience for an accurate and long living install. Don't forget proper break-in procedures...don't wanna overheat them! I was going to do mine, but the $400 or so in tools was more than my hook-up price from a local axle guy to install my r&p's in loose axles.
 
I've done gears before, I had a 95 f150 with 3.33s for whatever reason with 33 in tires (bought it that way) blew them up one night hill climbing and thus I put in 3.55s which ended up fixing my speed sensor somehow so it all worked out in the end haha
 
I have run 33s with the OEM 4.10s for a while now and both city and hyway driving $ucks, trails are ok with 4x low but not as good as I want it.

As soon as I get a few of these other projects out of the way I will change to 4.56s.

Go 4.56 as Fx4wannabe01 has stated, only way to go.
 
I love my 4.56s. They would be perfect for 33s and a 3.0L. I highly suggest using Yukon gears and install kits as they are top of the line. The Yukon install kits always use Timken or Koyo bearings (best of the best) and have many more shims than other kits.
 
06FordFX4 said:
Do you do city or highway as majority of your driving?

4.56 will give you better acceleration, and city MPG. But 4.10 will give you better highway Mpg.

Personally, I do lots of highway, so when I get 33's this spring, I'm staying with my 4.10 gears.
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Just doing some quick math.
4.56 gears w/33" tall tires yields a very similar engine rpm @ 60 mph as 3.45 gears w/25" tires (OD not factored in).
For hiway driving, can't beat the 3.45's on my '98 2wd, but the setup tends to give the impression of ABSOLUTELY NO bottom end.

...in my mind, you might wanna think about even shorter gears for trail running. Maybe 4.88's?


Dean
 
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DeanMk said:
4.56 gears w/33" tall tires yields the very similar engine rpm @ 60 mph as 3.45 gears w/25" tires (OD not factored in).
For hiway driving, can't beat the 3.45's on my '98 2wd, but the setup tends to give the impression of ABSOLUTELY NO bottom end.
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yes the number look similar BUT when it comes time spin those tires it will take more torque to turn 3.45/25’’ tires than the 4.56/33” tires.
Also weight might be equal but it is not the same.

93 4x4 said:
go with 456's
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4.10s on the highway, with 33” and a 3.0L, is OK if you don’t mind shifting a little on hills or making the auto work some and if the A/C is on shifting more than a little is required or you will slow from 65 to 50 very fast.

There is more to moving the vehicle than the right gearing, there is torque and the rpm range that will bring out the HP of the motor.

Find out the best rpm for the motor at cruising speed, max torque or max HP.
Then determine the tire size that works for you and looks like you want.
And THEN make the decision on what gear will get you to and maintain the rpm you need, that simple !
 
DeanMk said:
Please explain.
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Lower gears produce more torque by allowing the engine to turn more rpm when attempting to turn the tires. Something that is not taken into consideration when rehearing is the weight of the vehicle, tires and wheels. The weight of the vehicle is constant but by changing the tires and wheels to usually a heavier set you increase the torque needed to move them or you need to increase the rpm or the motor to raise the torque output to a level that will move the weight easier.

If you have an auto then the torque converter increases the torque ratio to appear to be running lower gears and would work better the the higher ratio.

Sorry I am not very good at describing things but I hope that works for you.

Ltr
 
Thank you, Scrambler.
That all made sense, except that you forgot to take into account that the taller tires will make up for the shorter axle ratio.
This was the point of my post.
If the two setups yield close to the same RPM at highway speed, then the engine doesn't see enough of a change for it to matter and the driver will notice nothing more than increased ground clearance.
I am under the impression that the OP is looking for a little more "dig" off-road, this is why I suggested going with even shorter gears.


Dean
 
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