I replaced the rubber plugs on the upper shift rail of the transmission on my '93. I took out the shifter to retrieve a core plug i hammered in too far. Afterwards i got a very funny feeling 5th, it would go part way into gear, the you'd have to push harder and it would "snap" into gear, almost like a tractor pto lever. And there was no reverse, it wasn't that it would go in and have no gear, it was something like puting a 4 speed into 5th. It just hits a wall and stays in neutral. I had discovered a lever attached to a pin on the 5th/reverse side (driver's side) of the trans on the trans cover had become misaligned. I'm wanting to know what this lever is, is there a governor inside the trans that blocks off reverse when it's moving? I'll post a pic when I get one. Trans is a Mazda m5od-r1 F27A.
Transmission Blockout?
- Thread starter ZappyBear
- Start date
Just an update, found what it was when rebuilding the tranny. It's a safety that keeps people from going straight to reverse from 5th. The spring had gotten too weak and was failing. After leaving it out of the rebuild I now have 5th and reverse whenever I want it, not when the tranny thinks I do.
You have to take the tranny completely out and take the top cover off. There is a boomerang shapes peice of metal held on by a "c" clip that needs to go. I have no idea why it fails. I used to be able to take it out of 5th, rock it back and forth in neutral a few times and put it in reverse. Something happened that it became a 4 on the floor with optional reverse. Just make sure you don't slam it into reverse while driving on the highway. That's what the "block out" was originally for. And check your clutch while you're in there. I'd also check the tranny for wear if you have a 4.0l, or even a 3.0l, for some reason Ford thought an inline 4 cylinder Mazda tranny would work fine in a powerful V6.
Nope, it does not. I looked for one because my rubber tranny plug has become dried and I needed to put freeze plugs in. I thought it may even have a welded or glued on tranny hump. I couldn't find a seam anywhere. I did end up cutting a hole in the tranny hump under the dash to access the passenger side tranny bolt. Another thing, replace that slave cylinder if you do take the tranny out, especially if you have a 4wd.
Eh, it's not too bad on the Mazda transmissions and early Ford transmissions. Now Chevy transmissions on the other hand, area a b****. The Sonoma I regrettably got to use while I fixed the ranger has a New Venture Gear 1500. They are a pain to get apart, and nobody sells rebuild kits. What I like is the Ford trannys are like tractor trannys, except it has syncro-hubs instead of sliding gears.
vinn
New Member
"cab floor trany cover" I don't know who to blame, ford or masda. when I was a kid in aprentiship, the brits were sending over cars with the same problem we have here - - only worse. for a clutch job we cut out a hole with "hammer and chisel", - straightened out the patch and tack welded it back in place. we now have some great "tin cutters". I might do that "just for drill" ! the type of hydrolic clutch design is another problem' cheers -- vin
Yeah, I liked it better when GM used the T5 transmissions that had external slaves. Once I got the bolts removed and transfer case off, it wasn't bad. It's the fact that the ranger was 4 wheel drive is what made it a pain. The Sonoma took me longer to take out the tranny, even though it was only 2 wheel drive. Mainly because of GM's never ending rust problem. I almost only needed a wrench for the ranger, but for any GM I pretty much need an impact and a breaker bar 100% of the time.
Jump the transfer case chain? What's that like? A Jeep needing a new engine, doesn't surprise me. Unless it's a diesel, that seems to be the only thing Chrysler can get right.
I've been wanting to find a decent bronco or bronco 2, they just look cool, and the passenger space looks nice. How are they on fuel economy? I know Google can give me some answers, but nothing beats real world expirience.
vinn
New Member
glad you asked, both are mostley auto tran.. get one with stick !! both were made in 2 wheel drive [rarer], first year production is best. the problem with my later big one is the tail gate has a power window IN IT, weighs a ton and often dosen't work --- can't lower the tail gate. the bronco 11 has several different tail gates, but most can be lifted or lowered. the v 6 engines in the bronco 11 are both crap. ON THE PLUS SIDE --- both are fun to drive and with the short wheel base and ground clearance -- will go any where. if you are a patient mechanic, buy one with a bad auto tranny cheep, replace the power train and modify the tail gate. "just sayin" vin
Cool, I like the small size of a Bronco II, but I also like the hauling capabilities of my '84 f150 so I may look for a plain 'ol bronco. And I have an off topic question. I noticed you looking through the wheel bearing post that I started talking to myself on.... Why was the person that started the thread banned?