Hooligan
Rangerholic!!
Written by member Mfernandes
In this How-to I will show you what to do when you upgrade your cluster to newerer models (like Sportrack white/silver ones) and things dont work in the way they should.
These are the common issues:
1- temp gage
2- check engine light
3- door ajar light
lets begin:
1- TEMP GAGE: The problem is that older models (up to 98) uses a resistor on this gage motor, and newerer models wont have this resistor at the back. As a result, this gauge is not accurate and totally useless:
Temp gauge at "normal" temp: its way down, the normal temperature should be arround the half of the graphic scale
What you will need to do is to dissamble the cluster, remove the temp/gas gauges panel (left panel) and simply remove the 2 screws that holds this motor on place (T-10 Torx screwdriver). Once this motor is out, simply replace with your OLD MOTOR, WHICH SHOULD HAVE A RESISTOR IN THE BACK:
Original white/silver temp gauge motor: note theres no resistor at the back
Once the new motor is in place, simply put the needle back in place. Place it at the bottom if the truck is cold or simply let it idle for 10-15mins and place it at the normal temperature. YOURE DONE!
2, 3- CHECK ENGINE / DOOR AJAR LIGHTS: The problem is that the back circuit changed with the years. Simple, we are going to re-route this lights.
"Door Ajar" will light up as "CHECK FUEL CAP" and "check engine" will not light up
Reroute IN YOUR NEW WHITE/SILVER CLUSTER "CHECK FUEL CAP" TO "DOOR AJAR" AND THE BLIND LIGHT TO "CHECK ENGINE" JUST ABOVE "CHECK FUEL CAP"
Blind light to "check engine" reroute
"check fuel cap" to "door ajar" (in the middle of the cluster) reroute
Youre done! Now your lights and gauges will work the same way as your original cluster! Enjoy!!!
In this How-to I will show you what to do when you upgrade your cluster to newerer models (like Sportrack white/silver ones) and things dont work in the way they should.
These are the common issues:
1- temp gage
2- check engine light
3- door ajar light
lets begin:
1- TEMP GAGE: The problem is that older models (up to 98) uses a resistor on this gage motor, and newerer models wont have this resistor at the back. As a result, this gauge is not accurate and totally useless:
Temp gauge at "normal" temp: its way down, the normal temperature should be arround the half of the graphic scale
What you will need to do is to dissamble the cluster, remove the temp/gas gauges panel (left panel) and simply remove the 2 screws that holds this motor on place (T-10 Torx screwdriver). Once this motor is out, simply replace with your OLD MOTOR, WHICH SHOULD HAVE A RESISTOR IN THE BACK:
Original white/silver temp gauge motor: note theres no resistor at the back
Once the new motor is in place, simply put the needle back in place. Place it at the bottom if the truck is cold or simply let it idle for 10-15mins and place it at the normal temperature. YOURE DONE!
2, 3- CHECK ENGINE / DOOR AJAR LIGHTS: The problem is that the back circuit changed with the years. Simple, we are going to re-route this lights.
"Door Ajar" will light up as "CHECK FUEL CAP" and "check engine" will not light up
Reroute IN YOUR NEW WHITE/SILVER CLUSTER "CHECK FUEL CAP" TO "DOOR AJAR" AND THE BLIND LIGHT TO "CHECK ENGINE" JUST ABOVE "CHECK FUEL CAP"
Blind light to "check engine" reroute
"check fuel cap" to "door ajar" (in the middle of the cluster) reroute
Youre done! Now your lights and gauges will work the same way as your original cluster! Enjoy!!!
