body lift

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by 98ranger, Apr 3, 2012.

  1. 98ranger

    98ranger New Member

    i have a 1998 ford ranger 2wd xlt and i just bought the summit racing 3 inch body lift kit what else will i need instead of the kit
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  3. El Camino Man

    El Camino Man Thank The Lord For BBFs!

    Patience lol. And tools. The kit should come with everything you need!
  4. camodown

    camodown Member

    Nothing unless you have a manual tranny. Then you will need a shifter extension.
  5. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    You'll definitely need a lot of PB blaster, a hot wrench would be great, and like camodown said, lots and lots of patience. Oh, and you'll need a filler hose extension if it didnt come with the kit.

    Unless you got their "universal kit" then you'll need bolts, bumper brackets, etc...
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2012
  6. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    Give us a run down of what was in the kit
  7. gcextreme

    gcextreme GCEXTREME Vendor

    I highly suggest you start breaking your bolts free ahead of time. If they are rusty, you will spend a good chunk of time just on removing your bolts (4 cab bolts, 2 bolts up by the radiator, 6 bed bolts, and several Bumper bolts)
    Get a propane torch, a good long breaker bar ratchet wrench, air/elec impact, and start breaking them free.
    I took all mine out, one by one (except the front 2 by the radiator, those are a bit different), and once i took them out, i cleaned up the threads and put some anti-seize on them, then put them back. I did this about 2 weeks in advance. So when the weekend came to tackle the full job, the bolts weren't a pain to take out.
    Also have plenty of tools, wrenches, sockets, extensions, a vise grip, a drill and a 1/2 drill bit, also a rubber mallet, and plenty of JB weld or that other stuff.
    Also spray all those bolts down real good with the stuff, a day or two before you start taking the bolts out, that helps too.
    So what i did, monday and tuesday, i sprayed the hell out of all the bolts. Wednesday after work i used my propane torch and big ratchet and impact to start breaking them free, took them out one by one. Did the bed bolts on wednesday, did the cab bolts on thursday, and the bumper bolts friday. Then not that weekend but the next, was when i tackled the big job. That saved me alot of time during the weekend.

    Now take in mind, your truck, being 2wd, is lower than my 4wd, so doing stuff under your truck is going to be a REAL PAIN!! But be patient, take your time, relax and tackle it slowly.
  8. klinger86

    klinger86 Moderator

    ^^this. Just did it on my 2wd. Oh and go ahead and try to find an extra nut/speed nut for one of the bed bolts. Almost all the ones up by the cab on the drivers side above the gas tank get rusty as hell and break.
  9. Fx4wannabe01

    Fx4wannabe01 New Member

    Great Post!

    Other notes: USE AIR!!!!! USE HEAT!!!!! They are both your friends. Also, download the PA(Performance Accessories) instructions. They're way more informative than the Summit one, even tho the Summit kit is made by PA.

    The only real prep work I suggest is painting the radiator drops, ground drops, and front bumper brackets PRIOR to installation. Makes for a far cleaner finished install. Wire wheel the parts then paint 'em. If you just paint on-top of the zinc coating, paint will not stick well and chip off.

    We don't know your location(please add it) but in The Rust Belt, the pre-loosening up the body bolts may be required as others noted from 'the belt'..

    When using the propane or mapp gas torch, only use it as needed. When used, heat just the end of the bolt 'til the bushing just starts to smoke, then attack the bolt head with the impact gun. The factory bolts are fully threaded and the full length of the threads is covered in medium thread locker. Can be a pain.

    Removal of front inner fenders is a VERY big help. Especially when doing the cumbersome steering extension and the front core support mounts.

    Use a fairly large wood block when jacking up the cab. There's a flange under the cab and if lifted improperly, you'll bend the flange.

    Instead of drilling out the threads off the front mounts, which is a pain in the neck by the way, hack off the threaded section instead.

    After lifting it and having it on blocks and bolts started, do yourself a favor and check to see if your cab is square to the frame. Mine isn't square and if you look really closely while following me, you'll see the crooked cab and bed. I still haven't bothered to finally fix it and she's been BL'd for 5 years now. lol.

    Good luck and be sure to post a thread of your progress! WITH PICS!!
  10. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    :thumbsup: Great advice!
  11. El Camino Man

    El Camino Man Thank The Lord For BBFs!

    Hey! I said that! Lol.

    But take everyones advice because its good advice! If you start to get frustrated (which for me, is the first time I bust my knuckles) its time for a break. Drink ya a cold one, cool off, and get back on it

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