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I used an ordinary HSS 3/8" drill bit to remove the rivets. After grinding off the rivet heads, make a dimple with a center punch, so the drill bit won't wander. Then drill into the rivets about 1/2" deep. Lastly, use a hammer & punch to knock out the remainder of the rivets. This works...

I was reading my Haynes manual this weekend, and in the fuel lines section, it says that all 3 fuel lines (supply, return, vent) are all different sizes. So I'll bet your supply & return were hooked up backwards. Swap 'em back around.

Um, you can slide your bed backwards, out of your way, without lifting it completely off the truck. Look here for the idea: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363210 Hmm. Are your hoses just backwards? Yes, only the clip holds it in place, over the metal tube's raised...

I would NOT recommend chewing away your fuel lines. That's a bad idea. The rubber O-rings inside the hose ends need to seal properly. Fuel leak is bad. Very. Bad. Did you take OFF the plastic C-clip, then install it last? I'll bet the plastic C-clip that holds the hose into place has...

p1000 means nothing, other than your codes are cleared. You need to complete a whole "drive cycle" before it goes away and a proper code appears (if any). http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/ .

My 1997 rubber filler neck hose measures 2" dia. at the top (gas cap) end, and 2.375" dia. at the bottom (tank) end.

Gee, thanks man! That's a great write-up. I'm gonna have to tackle this one when the weather gets warmer. Now I know what I'm up against. Yay! :thumbsup:

It might help to describe or show what you currently have. Why do you think you need a leveling kit? I have 31's on stock 4x4 height: front coils w/o spacers, and factory rear lift-blocks. http://i.imgur.com/00JTIOv.jpg

Wow! That's an awesome job. Well done! :thumbsup:

TO shift into 4wd low, you must be in neutral, and stopped. Were you?

What makes you think your shift motor is bad? Can you hear the "clunk" when it shifts? Do your front axles not engage? Are your locking hubs OK? A few yrs ago, my shifter wasn't working (no 4x4). Was it seized from lack of use? Bad electrical connections? I no longer recall why. I...

Co-pilot should be inside the cab at highway speed. Cute mod, though.

Wow, that's a BEAUTIFUL grille!!! Well done!!! <drool>

First, I'd check the more obvious stuff like vacuum hoses, IAC, DPFE, and also PCV & EGR. Hoses are cheap to replace. Intake gasket leak is a common issue for the 4.0, but let's hope yours is a simpler problem? Some say you can check for intake gasket leak by spraying lots of ether or carb...

If it's just 1 bank, then it could be the O2 sensor on that side (bank 1 is passenger side) for your 4.0L. Swapping sensors from 1 side to other will tell you which sensor is bad, if any. But since BOTH banks are too lean, then you've got a problem that's common to BOTH halves. So your...

FWIW, mine ran like that for a while (esp. winter) and it often stalled. But my codes were 0171 and 0174 (ie, both banks too lean). Cleaning MAF, etc. (with TV tuner cleaner) did nothing. Neither did replacing IAC, EGR. Turned out I had a leaky intake manifold gasket.

Yeah, being able to stop does feel good. :-) My rear line sprung a leak. Have you inspected your front brake lines? Mine were badly rusted, just like the rear. I didn't wanna risk front lines bursting exactly when I need to slam on brakes in a panic, some day. I'm just sayin'...

Grab a drink & sit, cuz this will take a while... I'm almost done replacing my brake lines, right now. My '97 4x4 had horribly rusty hard lines & hose connectors, so I replaced them all. Yup, rusted through & my brake fluid leaked at rear diff. Mine has rear ABS, not front ABS. Overall...