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Welcome To The Site, its gradually growing. Ask any questions you have you'll love learning about it.

That is the highest gear factory, you could go low so your RPM's run lower on the highway but will take a little more power to get going, you could go to 3.73's or 3.55's to get better mileage but like I said will take a little more to take off from a start.

His MPG increase on changing gears all depends on what speed he averagely drives and what size tires he has.

I see people gradually joining, the site just needs to reach the first page of results when one searches for a ranger forum.

I know of a guy that uses 0W30 in Fl. temps! I myself wouldn't go that light in a truck. Ford recommended 5W30 in 1992 and later in RBV's.

Sounds like some good plans. Since these truck have TTB suspension it doesn't take alot to make into a 4X4, you could swap in a D35 ttb its pretty much bolt on. But if you plan on running 38's you're probably thinking of doing a SAS right?

Welcome To The Site, the truck looks nice.

The clutch can still be getting hot since its in the drive train, sometimes with the way the clutch is worn it will drive fine when its cold out but when its getting hot it won't grip like it should and will cause the slippage you noticed. I would look into the issue of the motor not getting...

Just stick with 5W30 :)

The gear ratio can be changed, there is quite a selection of different gears for these trucks and if you change the rear you need to change the front also. What gearing are you running now and what size tire?

As far as the 3.0 goes it is weak for power for what the gas mileage is of it. The 4.0 can be swapped in but I think (not 100%) that the bolt pattern of the trans is different compared to the 4.0. As far as the the Axles you can use those with a 4.0. Pretty much all parts are interchangeable...

Sorry to hear bout your bad luck with the truck, but there is another alternative, instead of doing the shackles just do add-a-leaf, it'll do pretty much the same thing but you'll have to drop your leaf packs to do so.

Here ya go http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196965. Just do a google search for Warrior 153 Shackles they maybe labeled for a jeep but will work on the ranger, the replacement of the shackles wont be hard if you just replaced them. Just remember after you crank the torsion...

If you're not wanting to spend much money and don't want a body lift the only thing you can really do is crank your t-bars some and add warrior 153 shackles in the rear to get a 1.5-2" lift.

No there isn't really a true 4X4 traction unless you add diff lockers, but 4wd is deff. worth the extra cost because then you have front wheels grabbing for traction which will help you stay on the road more than what a 2wd with limited slip will. The only awd pickup I know of is the newer...

Welcome To The Ranger Forum.

With a 3inch lift theres the possibility of 33's which may or may not require slight fender trimming but 32's should fit with ease, since yours is 2wd you could crank the t-bars and put a set of lift shackles in the rear and/or a body lift.

I would highly suggest getting a 4wd, In my opinion I think if you're getting a truck and you have the opportunity to get a 4wd then that's the best way to go with a truck. But if you're insistent on a 2wd truck, you could do the same thing load it with sand and consider installing a limited...

Welcome To The Ranger Scene, they are great little trucks that will want to go on forever if you treat'em right there are many out there with well over 200k miles on them. They're also good 4wheeling with too. Don't know where you're from what your environment is like but since you just got it...

Its at the pedal kinda, look under your dash and at the gas pedal you will see the I'll call it a hinge where the pedel is held in, above that you see where the pedal extends up toward the dash you will see the cable running through it, then pull the pedal away from the floor and you'll see the...