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Haven't had the experience myself, but do believe the alternator is at fault. Other forums talk of the brushes bouncing at higher RPM's, thus causing the alt to charge intermittently. Would be interesting to have a voltmeter connected to monitor voltage during the light illumination event...

Sounds like the experimenting that went on 30 years ago. Didn't work then, doubt it will now.

You went the way it told you to. Very good, sorry for the belated response, was at a birthday party in Los Angeles.

You probably have the head off by now, just to add support to your efforts, it can be a real chore. I always used a long 30' prybar which was rounded down to a point. It fit into a head bolt hole and jarring it sideways was able to tear the gasket loose. People think, How can the gasket be...

Check out the local Ford dealer for a Ford remanufactured engine, the price might be more competative than you think.

The washer of that type is called a bellevelle washer. It is used to provide spring tension the the device being sucured by the bolt. More likely than not it goes between the bolt head and pulley. Check alignment for variances. Go to Helm.com for the service manual on the belt replacement...

Verify if you have spark and fuel. More than likely its the ign module on side of distributor, at times will act up when hot. The stator (inside of distributor) could be at fault also. Ign modules were more prone. Can't be more precise as we would have spare modules mounted on a heat sink...

Sorry for the real late response to such a good question. I don't believe the IAC will thro a code as it is an actuator instead of a sensor and has nothing else to compare its readings against.

Wondering what engine you are running?

Brake dust creating noise and rotor warpage?

$25.00 a week, think I spend more than that for beer runs. :jester:. Welcome to the forum, was wondering if our paths ever crossed on the other site.

Sorry bud, no help here. Thought of a couple of questions, full of fluid? The correct type of fluid?

Am thinking the hyd master or slave cylinder is starting to fail and not disengaging the clutch fully at every actuation.

Drafted in 1965, wanted one, 44 years later, thank full for not being branded like a cow. And yes, I had a girl friend, in fact still married to her 42 years later. So whats the point? If you are into Country music, Taylor Swift, 18 years old, tells her dad she wants a tattoo. Answer, go ahead...

Change mine according to mfg's specs. 5K interval. 183K and counting. 2002, 4.2L F150. 5w-20 oil.

Real late entry, with the engine off what does it shift like. Sound stupid? Try it and get back to us. The trans should shift into all gears with the engine off. Its how we bench check a trans after repair.

We had 650 2.3L turbo t-brids that we maintained back in 1985. Tons of fun and yes you will win any race out there. Maintenance tip, keep clean oil in it and if replacing the turbo, remove and flush the oil lines.

Checking in real late, so job is probably done. Put a floor jack under the harmonic ballancer and lift, watch out for clearance between fan and fan shroud. Do broken mount first, engine will roll or tip to side allowing mount replacement. Just do one at a time.

Obviously your concern is valid. Why, the no charge light? The basics would be to clean battery terminals, check all connections for tightness and test charging voltages. We need 13.8-14.2 volts with the engine running at 2000 RPM. Conditions in the truck can trigger the no charge light that...

If you are still having issues with the battery drain, here is a test that can be used to isolate the cause. A milliampere meter is best, but a common 12 volt test light can be substituted. Disconnect negative battery cable and connect the meter or test light between cable and battery terminal...