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The EEC is not firing the injectors during the start mode.

Looking for site to obtain service bulletins, am particularly interested in 08/22/05, 09/05/05, and 11/14/05. Thanks for your help, 2003 4.0 auto

Answered in other section.

Just curious, the new cap was defective? Or was it something else with the distributor?

Remove the TPS and test it with an ohm meter. Meter should sweep smoothly through out its range. The TPS tells the PCM (powertrain control module) what you, as the driver are doing to the engine.

Not that familiar with work completed, if the shift tower was disconnected for the work performed suggest looking at it again, sounds like you missed its engagement.

Have read two post by ROOSTTHEMOON, won't look at his others. My vote is to bounce the punk. Sorry thread starter got distracted. Your question about the tranny, sounds like the shift linkage isn't connected internally. Something has gone haywire. Engine taking three tries to start, with...

Inertia switched were in two locations. 1st location undercarpet to the right of tranny tunnel up near the heater plenium chamber. 2nd location is in the RH kick panel. I knew of a low oil switch located in the pan but was unaware that it would shut down the engine. Its a great idea if it...

Bank 1 is passenger side, cyls 1-3, front to rear.

Memory tells me there is a mechanical screw on throttle body, with IAC unplugged that screw was set to about 400 RPM (just enough to maintain idle). Reason was the IAC is supposed to control idle speed the mechanical screw was used to just prevent throttle plate binding. Not to be used to set...

My question to both concerned parties, what is the RPM at idle? Is it what you think is correct? Any typoe of intake leak?

Past due entry, have the codes read and get back to us, sounds like air in the heater not coolant, the hose from the head is the input to the heater, remove both and fill hose with coolant untill it flows out the other, reinstall. Am not an AC guy to comment on subject.

Welcome to the site, just spoke to another member with 265K on his 4.0, you're in nice company.

Thank you, in reading the thread got to 265K miles and started laughing. Guess you like your truck? Two ideas, 1st is to check for vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks are more noticeable at idle but have little effect at higher RPM's. 2nd, would be to take a compression reading on the engine. Perhaps...

Seen the double entry, pull the plugs and do a compression check. Have a crazy question, is this a single or dual spark plug engine? Not sure what years, but have seen a 2.3 with 2 plugs per cylinder.

WesternPaRanger, start with cleaning the sensors, two for the front and one in the back. CEL, have the system scanned, some auto parts stores do it for free to sell the parts.

Am I bad, just noticed thread is 15 or so days old. Guess all is good.

Open the hood and check for spark at the plugs. Check for fuel at the fuel rail. Procede from there as to course of repair.

Am glad you have it going, and just keep on asking questions. Thats how we all learn.

If the site offered didn't help, what is wrong with the frame aft of the front wheels?