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I assume this was bent in an accident? Take it to a body shop or frame shop to get it straightened. They have the correct equipment and the specs to put it back the way it should be. Other than that, my only suggestion would be to heat it with a torch and beat it back down.

I would begin by performing basic diagnostics. Check ignition (plugs, wires, etc.), fuel system (filter, lines, injectors and such). Give it a thorough check over first to eliminate things; then go from there. I know this is pretty vague, but I am not familiar with the early 1990's Rangers.

Well, ya know; ANYTHING is possible with a torch, a welder and a big hammer! LOL Jokes aside, here is a link to a forum post about seat swapping in Rangers. http://www.fordrangerforum.com/interior-tech/22847-seats-fit-ranger.html Hope this helps! :)

That could be a good thing (getting animated). I think he has strung you along long enough. Time for it to be done (and right).

This is really a stretch, but it is possible it is the ignition switch. You have eliminated all the logical causes, so not sure about this one. Sorry I can't be more helpful!

Good thinking on cancelling your line x. Did you get to talk to the shop owner when you brought it back?

What you are describing sounds like orange peel. Common problem on paint that was sprayed too dry or in too high temp booth. I did body and paint work back in the 1970's... I know a lot has changed since then, but orange peel remains a problem. EDIT: Just saw your pics. Man, that really...

I'm sorry that you feel badly about the quality of the paint job, especially since it took so long. Other than the pic of the top where they apparently didn't wash or dry it, the truck looks really good. Of course, it may not stand up to closer inspection. The damage at the bottom of the...

But it has such a... TOYOTA look about it. I have tried; and I simply can't get enthusiastic about the looks of this truck.

Don't forget some pics for us! :)

@Eddie Money: Do you go by the same name on the other forums? I stop by therangerstation.com occasionally... didn't know fordranger.net existed.

Interesting that the CEL stayed on for only a day... they usually don't act that way. Cleaning the MAF routinely is a good habit to get into and YES!, use the actual MAF cleaner spray.

Well, it is risky flushing and filling an old trans with fresh fluid. The fresh fluid is high in detergents that immediately start scrubbing the sludge out of the trans. That can cause leaks both externally and internally. Let me emphasize CAN. It doesn't always do that. It is, of course...

Well.... that sucks!

I follow Ranger-Forums.com and FordRangerForum.com as well as this one. Can't have too much Ranger information! :)

Some of the other Ranger forums get a bit heated over what diff is best! LOL

You're welcome! LOL My truck is Sonic Blue, but the fiberglass bed cover is actually Vista Blue. I didn't notice it until I had owned the truck for a week or two. Yes, they are VERY close! :)

As far as bolting up to the engine, that is the same all the way to 2011. The only thing that would make sense would be a difference in the frame or some obstacle on the 2011 that isn't there on the 2010. But still, that doesn't wash as the factory manifolds are the same. I know headers are...

Jim, I don't know much about the 4x4 other than what I mentioned above (my truck is 2wd). There may be things you can do to improve the function. Hopefully, someone else will chime in here to help. :)

I can't speak for aftermarket, but RockAuto.com lists the OEM exhaust manifold kits (manifold, studs and gaskets) the same for both 2010 & 2011.