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The only thing come to my mine is pipe adapter from the plumbing department. Take the truck cup holder and your super big gulp to the plumbing department. The small end should fit snugly to the cup holder and the bigger part should fit your "super big gulp". You may have to get several...

5w-30 Valvoline synthetic (although Valvoline bottled it for NAPA and so much cheaper too) and Motorcraft or Purlator filter, but NEVER FRAM!

Yea, you really have NO choice. What a great time for new clutch!

Brinker88 is on the right track, the battery have enough to keep the engine running for a short time. But eventually will run out of power from the battery. You need "alternator" to keep the electrical system going and charges the battery. I am not sure if that model have "voltage regulator"...

I did mine from a earlier Ford Tempo. I just have to give up my right arm rest, who need ARM REST when you are on the way to find BAMBI?

You need to remove the transponder and glue it onto the side of the tumbler, just move around until the engine start. I got tired of spending $$$ on new key, so have to gave up one of the transponder chip and super glued onto he cover next to the ignition key. Looking at the ignition switch...

Needless to say, "bone yards" is your option. If you are in California, Stealership only. I have seen some off Ebay or you might even find it on rock auto.com. There are to CATs on each side of the head and a main CAT.

2.5k just below 3K

slave cylinder, master cylinder, throw out bearing, new pilot bearing (although I am using brass bushing off the early 90s Chevy S-10) pressure plate, and have the flywheel resurfaced or get a new one. I would also drained and replace new fluid and finally pull out the 3 rubber shift rail plugs...

IAC => idler air control, this vale control the amount of air entering the intake and tell the computer how much fuel needed. Normally, you would have "high idle or low idle" if IAC is faulty. But it is sound like she is not getting enough fuel to the injectors. The reason I suggested fuel...

Seem like fuel filter or fuel pump is about to go. I would just replace the filter first.

You can, but its defeated the restraining system in place. When you needed the seat belt (heaven forbid NOT), you don't have the seat belt on..

Why not just jump the wires at the latch?

Welcome, Mark...

Not bunch of punk here, Mark K. I believe those bolt hose for from casting of the blocks. You got to have a way to move it around on the line.

In front of the crank pulley there is a sensor. I guessed it is "crank sensor", it tell the PCM to fire and spray fuel to the engine. Oil leaked or coolant will shorten the connection. Clean the connector or replace with new sensor.

If the tranny, you can drain the tran fluid and see if there is any large metal coming out of the drain hole. If nothing, just fill with quality ATF (2.8qt). Another thing you can check while under the truck is the drive line to the front axle. The boot on these thing tend to tear and lost...

change the spark plug? I would go with motorcraft only, since these engine originally come with.

You may have fan clutch not kicking in or radiator is clot. 20 years old truck, I would just replace the water pump and see what happen.

Something is stuck in that position. I would fill it up and drive it on a winding road, with lots of break check and see if that loosen it. If not you will have to take it apart and manually reinstall it gently. You don't have to drop the thank to get to the unit. Just lift the bed high...