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Redneck_ranger

Redneck_ranger

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This just completely ruined my day... Coming home from Clinton's Sunday, he and I both thought my CV was broken, because it was making noise. Now it turns out that it wasn't just that, but my whole ****ing differential had blown up! Now thanks to him not listening to me, and spending twenty bucks a few weeks ago to change the gear oil in the front diff when they did the back, he cost himself a few hundred dollars! Way to ****ing go dad!
 
When you say whole differential, what exactly are you saying? The pumpkin, ring/pinion is fuc ked or your hub assy/CV shaft is bad?
 
That sucks dude. I can't wait to see how bad mine looks. I've never changed the oil and I go through a lot of water.
 
Would anybody by chance have a spare diff that they would like to donate to me? I'm flat broke and I don't think my parent's are going to be paying for it again...
 
Hooligan said:
That will happen with hard wheelin
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It will happen even with light wheeling. Water gets in anywhere. Not just going hard.

Hurley said:
That sucks dude. I can't wait to see how bad mine looks. I've never changed the oil and I go through a lot of water.
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Do it. It will save you a lot of stress and time later on. I'm having it done to both trucks now, before the Dakota gets ****ed hard. I'm getting it done again to the back and obviously to the front too.
 
What axle would I have in the front end? I have a 97 in the rear, 4.10 gears, etc.. I'm trying to get my buddy to hook me up with one.
 
Unfortunately, you have IFS which is a bitch to work on differentially speaking. I would go to a JY and get one (prob gonna be around $200) and install it. I know what you're going through tho bud, Mine looked like this:

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Damn... At least mine isn't that bad, but it still requires the whole thing to be rebuilt. I kinda regret going with this year and not an earlier one that I can do an easy SAS on it.
 
Rebuild kits are cheap. Come with all new bearings (Pinion and carrier), shims, races, seals, etc.

You will ALSO need the outer seal and bearing on the stub shaft and driver side where the shaft slides in at. (another 30 bucks probably)

BUT if your gears are ****ed, I wouldnt bother...just get another 3rd member
 
I think the gears are alright, I was able to drive it 40 miles the way it was with no problems. I think the bearings are just bad. I'm gonna buy the kit and give it to the guys at the garage to put in. I don't have the time or the ability to put it in.
 
I'm telling you right now, you'll have less money putting in a whole third member than rebuilding your current one. You will have a **** ton more money for labor (your looking at at least 6 hours labor to redo that third member) PLUS 4-5 hours removing and installing the third member again. That adds up fast at what...$60/hr? $660 in JUST labor IF you can find a guy to do it for that cheap. Good luck finding someone to even touch it, let alone for cheap.
 
Well I can't do it myself, and the garage I went to is really good with prices. It's gonna have to be rebuilt, because the bearings inside are shot, and obviously some of the seals are too. It's either that or **** something up on my own and ruin the truck entirely. I don't have a garage at home, I have barely any tools, and I have no clue what I'm doing. What good is going to come out of that Brinker?
 
Um....maybe have the SHOP put the damn thing in for you? (what I was saying in the first place) It will be CHEAPER to have the shop put in a USED one than having your POS old one (that most LIKELY the gears are rusted/weak in) rebuilt.

Understood?

Dont take my advice if you dont want to, it doesnt matter to me. Im telling you what I know and what will save you money.
 
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